We said goodbye to Bahram and agreed to visit him in Hamadan the following week.
The bus drove from the plains of the Arax river down to the Caspian coast. The road descended from the vast flat plain into a forested mountain valley which opened up to the coast. It was overcast all the way. As we went down to lower altitude it got much more hot and sticky.
The view from the road along the Caspian coast, the Alborz mountains rising in the background.
Eventually we got to the town where we had to leave the bus; Fuman. The driver found us a car and we were taken to the village which was about an hour further up the road.
We werent sure where to stay but there were quite a few guest houses listed in our guidebook. The taxi stopped at the end of the road in the village. We got out and asked someone for directions to one of the hotels. They directed us onto a rooftop. It seemed a bit strange but we followed it and it led to another rooftop and there was a sort of path leading along the roof to the front of some buildings. It was all built on a very steep hill.
The roof of each building was the street-level to the next building up the hill. There were no motor vehicles in the village. All the access was by narrow alleys between the ochre yellow mud and timber buildings. Steep alleys with crooked steps led up and down between the levels. It was such a 3-dimensional place. Whatever level you were on one side you could see all the activity on the level below while on the other the rest of the village loomed over you.
We found a self catering place to stay at an OK price. It was a nice big room with matresses on the floor. There was a balcony, a seperate room for Hannah and a bathroom and kitchen.
We got some food. In the Gilan region the food has alot of garlic. The local speciality is this soup called Ash which contains LOADS of garlic. It tastes like raw garlic. Its delicious but it repeats on you.